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Der CHIP Installer lР“dt diesen Download ausschlieР“lich schnell und sicher Р“ber CHIP Highspeed-Server herunter, sodass eine vertrauenswР“rdige Herkunft sichergestellt ist. ZusР“tzlich zu Virenscans wird jeder Download manuell von unserer Redaktion fР“r Sie geprР“ft.
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ZusР“tzliche Software entdecken: Aus redaktioneller Sicht einwandfreie Testversionen warten im Installer auf Ihre Entdeckung.
Bei uns haben Sie die Wahl, denn im Gegensatz zu anderen Portalen ist standardmГГig keine zusГtzliche Software ausgewГhlt.
Mit Nik Sharpener Pro 3 verleihen Sie Ihren Fotos die optimale SchР“rfe.
Der Schnappschuss ist verwaschen? Kein Problem, Nik Sharpener Pro 3 holt trotzdem das beste Ergebnis aus dem Bild heraus. Das Plug-in fР“r Photoshop Co. verleiht jedem Foto die hР“chstmР“gliche QualitР“t und ist dazu auch noch einfach zu bedienen.
Wenn Sie mehr EinfluР“ nehmen wollen, als nur den Gesamt-SchР“rfegrad zu variieren, kР“nnen Sie unter der Funktion Р’AdvancedР’ sogar einzelnen Farben den gewР“nschten SchР“rfegrad zuweisen.
FР“r die Druckermarken HP, Canon, Leymark und Epson bietet Nik Sharpener Pro 3 verschiedene Filter an, um den SchР“rfegrad fР“r den Druck perfekt zu gestalten.
Hinweis: Auf der Homepage des Herstellers ist die Demo auch fР“r Mac-Nutzer zu erhalten. Der Malmodus Р’PaintР’ und der FР“llmodus Р’FillР’ sind bei der Demo nicht anwendbar.
Fazit: Nik Sharpener Pro 3 ist eine eindrucksvolle Erweiterung fР“r jeden Bildbearbeiter, die aber auch ihren Preis hat.
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Mit Camera Raw k nnen Photoshop-Nutzer Digital-Aufnahmen im RAW-Format optimal bearbeiten.
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Sharpener Pro: Plug-in fР“r Adobe Photoshop zum selektiven SchР“rfen von Fotos; beschrР“nkt SchР“rfung mittels Kontrollpunkten auf eine Farbe oder einen kreisfР“rmigen Bildbereich
Das Photoshop- und Aperture-kompatible Plug-in Nik Sharpener Pro 3 schР“rft Fotos selektiv und gezielt fР“r Monitor, Belichtung und Druck. BildschР“rfe ergibt sich nicht nur aus richtigem Fokus und ausreichend vielen Pixeln, sondern vor allem aus dem Kontrast der Motivkanten. Der Sharpener Pro von Nik beschrР“nkt die schР“rfende Wirkung dank der eigens entwickelten Kontrollpunkte auf eine Farbe oder РІ wenn der gewР“nschte Bereich farblich nicht gut definiert ist РІ auf einen kreisfР“rmigen Bildbereich. So lassen sich gezielt Augen oder beispielsweise eine Uhr schР“rfen. Das Plug-in unterscheidet zwischen Raw Presharpener und dem OutputSharpener. weiterlesen
Bitte wР“hlen Sie die Version aus, die Sie kaufen mР“chten. Sie werden dann zur Webseite des Anbieters weitergeleitet.
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Das Plug-in Color Efex Pro 4 fr Photoshop, Lightroom und Aperture macht aus langweiligen Digitalfotos stimmungsvolle Bilder. Color Efex Pro ist eine Filtersammlung, mit deren Hilfe Fotografen ihre Bilder ohne viel Handarbeit verbessern knnen. Mit Version 4 erhht sich die Anzahl der Filtertypen auf insgesamt 55. Dark Contrasts verdunkelt etwa Details und hebt damit auf dstere Weise Texturen hervor. Der Detail Extractor verstrkt lokale Kontraste hnlich einem HDR-Tonemapper. weiterlesen
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If I had finally this article, I d say this is actually a story of any discovery from the most misunderstood product from the Nik Collection by Google. It s an incredible product that needs a solid comprehension of its feature set, so that you don t just run this filter striking OK. As a result in the event you own it or have tried the demo and were disappointed using the results, please continue reading as this post will enlighten yourself what you and I until recently have missed.
Don t even think about sharpening and soon you are 100% done while using processing of the image. You should be finished with all noise reduction, exposure/color adjustments, filters, etc and possess completed one last crop/resizing. Sharpening can be your last the answer to prepare your image to seem its best for just a specific targeted output an exhibit device with the web, a little or large print, etc. In fact, Nik Software has products for those stages of one's workflow and output sharpening falls at the conclusion of that group.
I recommend you perform noise reduction when your very first step and sharpening the last step.
In other products, when you do sharpening you're always reminded to zoom to 100% when performing sharpening. However, in Sharpener Pro I don t advise that you do that. Instead, I suggest you zoom into a level to show off how you will likely be looking for the image for the final output. For example, when you are usually doing a large print and can see it close up then sure zoom to 100%. However, should you are usually doing a print so you aren t destined to be staring at it beneath a microscope, then don t consider it at 100% when sharpening. I say this because sharpening is really a lot like anti-aliasing on fonts where at 100% the fonts will be terrible with anti-aliasing, though the enhancements made far away will make the written text more clear and legible like from the case of ClearType on Windows. At 100% you may well be disappointed sometimes with all the settings, but for the image in your web site or print, the settings could be perfect. However, in the event you pixel peep and then try to do the minimal sharpening, the outcomes on the web maybe in print are affected.
Fortunately, Sharpener Pro is excellent at showing real-time results having a slight lag on my small computer of any with the settings you are going to change. Toggling the preview checkbox lets you see a before to see the amount of it has improved your image. As a result, I think you ll learn that viewing the entire view and making adjustments generally will create the most beneficial overall results and also your images can look much better than people that pixel peep.
TIP: Nik Software products don t have maximize buttons, but should you move the window in to the top left corner of one's screen then drag the handle about the bottom right corner with the window it is possible to fill the screen with all the UI. I find this expanded view useful when conducting sharpening adjustments.
To utilize Lightroom add-in, you commence by right clicking picking the Sharpener Pro 3.0 feature you intend to use.
The RAW pre-sharpener is to the hard core types that you ll need to begin to do general purpose sharpening on RAW images ONLY in the event you have turned OFF ALL sharpening inside your camera and also your RAW processing software usually Adobe Camera Raw ACR or Lightroom. That s right, you got it, ACR, Lightroom, etc ALWAYS apply some default sharpening in your images.
If you might be using JPEG s, and other sharpening with your RAW images, then a Output Sharpener is where you'll want to sharpen before printing or displaying for the web. This is what the majority of us uses, so generally speaking you may ignore RAW sharper unless you have mastered this system and wish to obtain greater control of one's sharpening experience.
Generally speaking you ll desire to choose the first option Edit a duplicate with Lightroom Adjustments making sure that all of your respective existing changes get included inside new file that Lightroom will provide for use with Sharpener Pro. Yes, that s right a different file really needs to be created as that will be the way Adobe Lightroom not Nik Software handles using the services of external editors. The good news though is always that for sharpening, it must always be your last step so that you ll just created a different file for that specific output target, a 8x12 print, an online gallery, etc.
TIP: Choose the defaults. While this dialog shows PSD, the Nik Software products can t read that format and definately will crash. TIF files are huge but fortunately non-destructive very first better than JPEG, so leave yourself a good amount of disk space. This file are going to be created along with your original file.
From this time everything could be the same as in the event you were doing work in Photoshop except the outcomes are saved for the file rather than as a brand new layer in Photoshop. Aperture works similarly as Lightroom, so exactly the same concepts should apply.
For completeness, I ll start immediately by showing the RAW Presharpener user-interface. If you skipped the section above, rewind and read your second paragraph about it feature. It s usage is rather simple in that you might be just setting some LIGHT sharpening for starters. Some believe that you shouldn t never go sharpening towards the end, and that is usually a sound argument, though the reality is the fact that we like to view images that aren t blurry regardless if we are working away at them and now we are utilized to some default sharpening from cameras and import software. If you intend to get some of this back in a controlled way, this will be your option but make sure to use it sparingly because the real sharpening should regularly be last.
Most of people these days obviously have one target for images computer displays either locally or on internet sites like Smugmug. The cost of printing every image from the digital age is cost prohibitive for almost all of us, so usually you ll spend the majority of your time accepting the default output target of Display. Here s a shot in the user-interface in Display output, that is certainly also taking benefit from a U-Point control to produce alternate sharpening to my face with this image that could appear later on this article:
The user-interface includes a preview window of the image which shows real-time changes and also a convenient Preview checkbox, which when you clear it is going to show you your original image. This can be a fun checkbox to toggle since you ll be pleased together with the before and after connection between sharpening. You can read the help for the discussion in the rest with the UI, nevertheless the remaining items I wish to call out are:
Creative Sharpening This is regarded as the important part as it lets you set the sharpening you want on your image. This will probably be discussed more later on this article.
Selective Sharpening Here you'll be able to use Control Points to incorporate additional or remove existing sharpening from the specific area. These are user friendly masks in which you just drop a control point on the color and it also figures how you can create a complex mask sweet! There s additionally a second style of selective sharpening called color ranges, but I m not so fond of them so I ll leave that just as one exercise that you discover.
Loupe The loupe is often very useful in Nik products as it shows that you split view where your mouse currently is located that shows the both before and after 100% view. However, inside the case of sharpening as mentioned previously you may not just like the results on the 100% view so don t get hung up into it. It s more of your safeguard to ensure that you aren t getting nasty artifacts which were a problem should you are doing large prints.
BrushSave Button If you're using Photoshop you ll view a brush button which provides the substitute for paint employing a layer mask the part of the image you desire the changes to become applied to, otherwise choose OK to get it applied towards the whole layer. In Lightroom there s a save button to just make Lightroom s copy to get updated.
TIP: You can go through the little check boxes next on the control points start to see the orange check above to see what exactly will be afflicted with your control point. These are just layer masks therefore the rule that Black conceals and White reveals which suggests that grayscales in between are going to be semi-transparent still apply. The little box higher than the orange check can be accustomed to show ALL or hide ALL control point masks.
Viewing Distance This I think is more of the legacy feature as Nik recommends you always utilize Auto setting. However, I guess in case you are putting your art in someplace small just like a powder room you might need to choose one from the lower settings as shown below to stop too much sharpening for just a large print which has a short viewing distance. However, my recommendation would be to makes use of the default should you not do your printing and you happen to be willing to do multiple prints to experiment.
Paper Type Different paper types require different amounts of sharpening, glossy requires less than a canvas, along with the UI below shows they ve essentially got everything except for that hot new Metallic paper types available. Generally you ll set this on your paper type along with your good to go.
Printer Resolution DPI can be a fairly meaningless number nowadays, so this can be a more accurate method to apply your sharpening in accordance with the pre-defined or user-defined output of the specific printer. If you're sending your prints off with a third party, a good print house is going to be happy to show you everything you would like to know relating to printers like the resolution. Again, that is a set and begin to forget option.
After you might have made your output sharpening selections that you are ready to get towards the fun stuff creative sharpening.
What the product offers that is quite a bit different than that which you can do with Lightroom or Photoshop is its Creative Sharpening features. They are also available as sliders inside the UI additionally, on the U-Point controls and they are described as follows:
Output Sharpening Strength This is like Amount in Lightroom or Photoshop the amount sharpening you would like applied.
Structure This sharpens the graceful areas between hard edges this seems a lot like Photoshop s Threshold, but smarter.
Local Contrast This sharpens small details or small edges. As far as I can tell, few other sharpening tool out there performs this.
Focus This is undoubtedly an amazing adaptive sharpening that applies more sharpening towards the out of focus areas of computer does the in focus areas. This is usually a HUGE advance over such things as Focus Magic or anything in Photoshops USM or Smart sharpening.
This is in places you ll add your own personal level of sharpening. In generally you ll must decide which plus it could be all from the last three sliders you would like to adjust to get the desired amount of sharpening after which use the Output Strength to determine the amount sharpening you need.
Here s a picture where despite my best efforts, your camera moved that it was resting on slanted rock plus the image became very blurry. However, I loved the capture plus the environment revives great memories. As a result I wanted to try to avoid wasting this shot, so I cranked in the focus to help while using blur. I increased the adaptive sharpening to possess mroe in the image impacted, after which I added just a little structure and local contrast. At this aspect, I was fairly pleased about everything except the rock within the bottom left corner, so I put a U-Point control onto it and boosted the sharpening in this spot. Heres the inputs for my changes that will be a little over done for your demo, but you'll be able to adjust for a own personal taste:
Below will be the final output. If you hover on the image you can understand the before image from a slight pause with the download then mouse out to understand the finished version again:
As would be the case with noise reduction, the outcome are very subjective. One man s wow is yet another man s yuck, so I ve boosted the alterations to have the results quicker to notice. You are unengaged to go about based in your taste. In addition, when you do a great deal of sharpening as I have because of this sample, your image might lessen a bit so keep that in mind when performing your color processing BEFORE sharpening yeah, delete and redo your sharpening in the event you need for making adjustments sharpening is ALWAYS last!.
You can easily see this once blurry image is currently much sharper and detail can be seen inside the water or removed via U-Point control when you like the blur there. The moss, wood and rock textures result in the image almost feel 3 dimensional now. I can attest for the fact that image printed quite nicely on canvas after sharpening which means this was a case where sharpening saved a cherished image that could have rather be deleted or ignored with a hard drive.
I ll admit that this is the little tricky to spell out in a blog as not like a real life demo. see my video entitled Photo Thoughts Editing Seattle with Nik Software for the short but detailed demo.
Sharpening hasn t changed much in Photoshop inside a while, so though I m using CS4 precisely the same results would connect with earlier versions. I haven t had the oppertunity to achieve better results together with the Smart Sharpen filter. Here s my settings and the way they are applied via my Action:
Hover above the labels below the style to change to your corresponding version. There might be hook delay while the whole picture downloads, so remain calm. Click the whole picture to visit a larger version with the currently active my eyes, the Sharpener Pro image may be the clear winner, specially when you look at things such as my backpack straps, the tiles about the back wall and my hair:
I probably over did it on my own face and will have toned it down more, however you get the general idea.
While Focus Magic s user-interface is actually comparatively bad, initially I thought the outcomes were okay. However, because image below demonstrates and don't forget, you are able to adjust to satisfy your taste you've a great deal more flexibility for recovering blurry images with Sharpener Pro than you choose to do with Focus Magic. Hover in the image to view the Sharpener Pro version and mouse out to find out Focus Magic again.
So now I not have to get mad for the bartender on this Irish pub when planning on taking a blurry shot I ve corrected it to your point where its worth associated with an online gallery or details in it.
Of all with the Nik Software products I own, I have to admit that this will be the last one I ve heated to. While I love Nik products, I didn t really fully understand this device before watching the videos, so the outcomes I achieved by it were poor at best. I was so utilized to my fine tuned Actions to the USM filter in Photoshop and Lightroom presets, that I never really bothered to learn the way to use the product. WOW, just what a mistake which was! If I only would've known the way to effectively use the product sooner I could did a much better job by shots that I loved but that were a tad soft because of errors in my part. I also might have saved myself A LOT of time. Fortunately I have discovered it now, largely partly to my taking the time to understand about it better with this review which I initially expected for being a not suggested review. I m now in love with the product and won t be sharpening the previous fashion way anymore continuing to move forward.
If you ve been disappointed together with the results you receive from sharpening in Adobe s products or Aperture, this product is designed for you.
If you print and also have struggled to to nail the best for print sharpening settings, than the product is made for you.
If you ve had people insult your images to be too soft or oversharpened, than the DEFINITELY is THE product in your case!!!!
Honestly, lacking buying better lenses, there s hardly anything else I can think of these would help your images more. In fact, even in case you have great glass, you ll still benefit from this supplement to get that world-class sharpening the thing is that from Top Photographers.
I HIGHLY recommend this device, especially in the event you own or considered buying Focus Magic. This is a lot better!
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I go to know your website by reading review on Viveza 2. That may be the product I am seeking before I will turn into a Photoshop master some years later.
I possess a question within the sharpening softwares. Have you even got word of DOP Optimal Sharp from Uwe Steinmueller? It says it just carry out the right thing to your photos without supplying you with many options or requring that you play around.
Love to listen for your opinions!
I don t believe in a-size fits all solutions for sharpening because each image is unique and the amount of sharpening you choose to do depends on the output target.
In my opinion and also the opinion of may top pros I ve interviewed, there s nothing for the market now a lot better than Nik Software s Sharpener Pro. PhotoKit Sharpener is said to own an good thing about being non-destructive, so I ll give it a look soon because there are a few big pros who swear by it.
Excellent Review and How to on Nik Sharpener Pro 3! I myself have purchased every one of NIK s software except their HDR software. This is usually a related question about using NIK software in Lightroom 3 the place you did touch on my small subject. I would like to utilize NIK software, Define, Vivaza, Color Effect 4 however, not have it make a fresh file every time. Is there a means to have Define make a replica, but have the following NIK software only edit the newly created file?
Sure, there s a fairly easy trick you have to do that I do mention somewhere about the blog.
1. On the first image you start in Nik Software product you ll need to edit a replica with lightroom adjustments.
2. On Subsequent launches rather then choosing the default option, you should choose EDIT ORIGINAL.
3. When you hit save on the Nik product it is going to overwrite the first sort file so all within your changes is going to be in one file.
There s pluses and minuses to this approach. This method loses less disk space and fosters fewer files, and you lose the ability to rollback and undo multiple files is kinda just like the poor mans layers.
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